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Made in USA, Lee 88 (Cone Mills denim), manufactured between 1973 and 1974

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Product details

Management number 37912244 Release Date 2026/01/11 List Price $350.60 Model Number 37912244
Category

✴︎Lee 88 “BOSS OF THE ROAD”
1969-1971 (Made in USA) Made in the Sedan factory, Kansas, USA, Lee 88 (Cone Mills denim, Union Special stitching). This is a very rare original piece, representing the "final golden age of U.S.A. manufacturing" for the Lee brand.

✴︎Reasoning (Timing of Rubber Patch Adoption)
① Lee rubber patch introduction: The "rubber patch" was adopted in the late 1960s to early 70s. In other words, pieces using the rubber "BOSS OF THE ROAD" label correspond to the real work line (for factory and agricultural workers) models of the early 1970s.

1. The hem seam has a clear "chain loop" visible on the reverse side. The thread color is a lemon yellow cotton thread. The stitching pitch is somewhat coarse, with rope tension. This is a sewing mark unique to the Union Special 43200G (American-made chain stitch machine).
2. The hem allowance (chain stitch position) is low, and the hem allowance is slightly thick (about 1.5cm). This is a specification unique to Lee, which uses "Sanforized denim that considers shrinkage."
3. The fading appearance: There is a strong wave-like fading along the seams. This is a natural aging effect due to cotton thread x chain stitch + old-style machine tension. This is a detail unique to the 70s originals that is difficult to reproduce in current reproductions.

✴︎Back Center Label
* White label with blue "Lee®" embroidery.
* "MADE IN U.S.A." printed on the bottom.
* This placement, typeface, and sewing angle are unique to the US-made Lee from around 1969-1971. (After 1972, the "R" mark and ® position changed, and the seam allowance became thinner.)

✴︎Denim Fabric
* Both the color and vertical fading are "Cone Mills right-hand twill Sanforized denim."
* Slightly greenish blue, consistent with Lee 91B and other products from the same period.
* This is also a characteristic of the fabric lot from around 1970.

✴︎Hem Construction: No selvedge (red ear), chain stitch finish. This specification is standard for Lee 88 (work model), with thick stitch counts and the characteristic pitch of the old Union Special (about 7-8 stitches/inch).

✴︎Top Button: "UNION MADE / Lee" engraved + deep golden oxidized brass. This specification ended in the late 1960s to 1971.

CategoryMen > Jeans > Other
SizeL
BrandLee
ConditionGood

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